Mount Field and kunanyi/Mount Wellington aren’t necessarily the tallest peaks in Tasmania — those all lie further north — but they are both among the most visited. Easily accessible from Hobart, the two parks hold very different charms.

Mount Field, Day 1: Waterfalls, Tall Trees, and Glowworms

Mount Field National Park, home to everything from waterfalls to ski slopes to some of the world’s tallest eucalyptus trees, is the oldest national park in Tasmania. On our first day there, we parked next to the visitor center and started out on the easy track that takes you to two-tiered Russell Falls.

We then went up the slightly less easy (but still very manicured) trail to Horseshoe Falls …

… and continued onto the Tall Trees Walk.

Aside from a small elevation gain, none of this is difficult — it’s more of a stroll than a walk. But it’s incredible to look up at the swamp gums (Eucalyptus regnans), the tallest flowering trees in the world, and feel absolutely tiny. We also loved the tree ferns and the remains of old trees scattered on the ground.

We returned to Mount Field at night to see the glowworms that shine just next to Russell Falls. It’s about a fifteen-minute walk on a paved path to get there. If you’ve seen big, sparkling glowworm walls or caves, you might not be impressed, but we love any glowworm show, no matter how small (I can’t show you a picture — just imagine tiny dots of light glowing in the darkness right in front of you).

Mount Field, Day 2: Grass Trees, Native Flowers, and Mountain Lakes

On our second day, we returned to Mount Field and drove up a windy, narrow 16-kilometer dirt road to get to Lake Dobson. At 1,033 meters, the parking area gets you nearly to the twin peaks of the mountain. From there, we struck out on the Pandani Grove Walk.

The pandani (Richea pandanifolia), or giant grass tree, is the tallest heath plant in the world. Endemic to Tasmania, this subalpine tree uses its Dr. Seuss-like dead foliage to help shed snow and ice. It’s hard not to love both the shaggy stands… 

… and their stunning flowers.

At the end of Lake Dobson, we decided to continue on to the Platypus Tarn Track. I would describe this trail as brushy, moderately challenging, and wet (I suppose that last one isn’t always the case, but Mount Field is a pretty rainy place). The trail ends at Platypus Tarn, a small mountain lake.

We did not see a platypus — we visited in the middle of the day, which is exactly the wrong time for platypus viewing — but I was excited to find native orchids (Caladenia alpina) along the trail.

Once you hit Platypus Tarn, you have the option of continuing to do the full Tarn Shelf Circuit. But we decided to turn back and head for a lovely late lunch at the Possum Shed Cafe.

kunanyi/Mount Wellington: Dramatic Cliffs, Rocky Heights, and Endless Views

Just an hour and a half from Mount Field lies Hobart’s Wellington Park, one of the most-visited attractions in all of Tasmania. Home to kunanyi/Mount Wellington, Wellington Park is one of the state’s largest reserved areas. Unlike Mount Field, which feels wooly and wild, Wellington Park feels much more developed (there’s a paved road all the way up to the top). But it’s still a wonderful place to explore the outdoors. We drove up to The Springs parking lot as a starting point for the Organ Pipes Track, a moderately difficult but well-maintained 7.4 kilometer return hike that takes you just under these incredible dolerite cliffs.

The cliffs were formed when Tasmania was breaking off from Antarctica during the Jurassic period, which is pretty cool. We took a break to look up at them and then out over the city of Hobart.

As always, I also stopped to admire various kinds of flora and fauna.

In a perfect world, we would have continued up to the top via the Zig Zag Track, but it was closed for maintenance. So we turned around at the Chalet and returned to The Springs, where we enjoyed a chai and a mocha at the Lost Freight cafe.

After our bevvies, we could not resist a drive up to the 1,270-meter summit of kunanyi / Mount Wellington. It’s crowded and windy up there, but it’s fun to play on the rocks …

… and admire the endless views.

If you haven’t visited Hobart yet, check out my post on ten reasons why you should — this mountain is one of them!

Looking for other day trips from Hobart? Hop in your car and explore the geology, history, lavender farms, and wild seas at the top of the Tasman Peninsula.