Rocks and Water
We had to pass a ruined church, a ruined house, and a ruined wall to access our Airbnb apartment in Kato Chora. But Jocelyn and I spent a full three […]
Fresh & Salty
Most of Kythira looks like a moonrock – it’s mostly covered in low scrub – so the village of Milopotamos is a breath of fresh air. While there’s still plenty […]
4 Beaches and an Ekmek
Jocelyn and I spent our first day in Kythira hitting the beaches — as many as we reasonably could. We started at Kombonada Beach, where we were happy to have […]
Coming to Kythira
Jocelyn and I have traveled from the birthplace of Zeus, the Peloponnese, to the birthplace of Aphrodite, the island of Kythira (though Crete would dispute both of those claims). The […]
Nearly Nowhere
The Parnonas mountain range slides down into the southeastern finger of the Peloponnese, eventually terminating in an area that is almost empty of people. Jocelyn and I entered this area […]
Skoutari & the Rock
We always make one or two pilgrimages to Skoutari, one of the best beaches within shouting distance of the farm in Koumani (though at a half-hour drive, it’s a pretty […]
Beware the Spartans
Messenia, the southwestern tip of the Peloponnese, spent centuries under Spartan rule. They finally won their independence in 371 BC, when a Theban general named Epaminondos invaded and liberated the […]
Shady Spots & Shipwrecks
For our second day in the Peloponnese, Jocelyn and I drove up to Polidroso (also known as Tsitsina, its Turkish name), a charming village in the Parnassos mountains. This was […]
From the Beach to Taygetus
We started our first day at the farm with a visit to one of our favorite beaches, Mavrovouni. We love this beach for its brollies (umbrellas, for those of you […]
Across the Gulf & to the Farm
Three days ago, we drove from Delphi down to the Peloponnesian Peninsula. The drive took us along the Gulf of Corinth, which pretty much divides Greece in two (the Gulf […]
