Musings on Hellas
I am so interested in seeing new places that I rarely return to the same area of a country a second time. Yet I have now made three trips to […]
Category Archives: Greece
The End of the World
The ancient Greeks believed that the gate to Hades lay in an underground cave beneath Cape Tenaro (also called Cape Matapan), the southernmost tip of mainland Greece. It’s a remote […]
Western Mani Beauty
The Mani, the area in the southwestern finger of the Peloponnese, has traditionally been one of the harshest, driest, most remote areas of Greece. It was one of the only […]
Rocks and Water
We had to pass a ruined church, a ruined house, and a ruined wall to access our Airbnb apartment in Kato Chora. But Jocelyn and I spent a full three […]
Fresh & Salty
Most of Kythira looks like a moonrock – it’s mostly covered in low scrub – so the village of Milopotamos is a breath of fresh air. While there’s still plenty […]
4 Beaches and an Ekmek
Jocelyn and I spent our first day in Kythira hitting the beaches — as many as we reasonably could. We started at Kombonada Beach, where we were happy to have […]
Coming to Kythira
Jocelyn and I have traveled from the birthplace of Zeus, the Peloponnese, to the birthplace of Aphrodite, the island of Kythira (though Crete would dispute both of those claims). The […]
Nearly Nowhere
The Parnonas mountain range slides down into the southeastern finger of the Peloponnese, eventually terminating in an area that is almost empty of people. Jocelyn and I entered this area […]
Skoutari & the Rock
We always make one or two pilgrimages to Skoutari, one of the best beaches within shouting distance of the farm in Koumani (though at a half-hour drive, it’s a pretty […]
Beware the Spartans
Messenia, the southwestern tip of the Peloponnese, spent centuries under Spartan rule. They finally won their independence in 371 BC, when a Theban general named Epaminondos invaded and liberated the […]
