When you think of Egypt, you probably picture pyramids, pharaohs, temples, and tombs. But there is a whole region in the southern half of the country — stretching from Aswan all the way into northern Sudan — that has a very different history and culture. This area is called Nubia, and the best ways to explore both its ancient past and contemporary culture are in Aswan at the Nubian Museum and Nubian Village.

Where is Nubia?

Vast and wide-ranging, Nubia has no precise borders, but you can get a sense of its rough location here:

Long ago, ancient Nubia was home to one of the oldest civilizations in Africa (the Kerma culture). Many centuries later, several major empires came to power in Nubia — including the Kingdom of Kush, which conquered the pharaohs of Egypt in the eighth century BC. Yet Nubia remains far from most people’s radar. To begin to get an understanding of both ancient Nubia and Nubian culture today, start your journey at the Nubian Museum.

Nubian Museum

Prehistoric Nubia

The Nubian Museum walks you through the history of man in this region, starting with very old artifacts:

Civilizations of Old: The Kerma, Meroe, Ta-Seti and Ballana Peoples

Of particular interest are the pieces of highly polished Kerma pottery …

… and the examples of how wealthy Nubian people might have looked during the New Kingdom period (c. 1570-1069 BCE).

There are also examples of pottery from the Meroe civilization (side note: the Meroe built their own pyramids, known as Nubian Pyramids, which you can see in modern-day Sudan) …

… the Qustul cemetery …

… and the Ballana cemetery:

Egyptian Pharaohs in Ancient Nubia

For a period, Nubia was conquered by the Egyptian pharaohs, and the region’s art began to reflect that influence. Two examples are this statue of Ramses II from Kush …

… and a Nubian container for a mummified lamb from the Ptolemaic period:

Shifts in Power, From Greece to Islam

I can’t possibly go through all of the history of Nubia; it’s incredibly complicated, especially since we’re talking about a region rather than a single country. The museum has many long and detailed posters that attempt to explain shifts in power and culture over time.

What I can say for certain is that eventually, Nubia — along with its northern Egyptian neighbor — fell to other influences: first Greco-Roman, then Christian, and finally Islam.

The history section of the museum ends at the start of the Islamic period; then the focus shifts to an exploration of traditional Nubian culture.

Nubian Culture: Dioramas and Artifacts

This is the diorama section! You can learn about Nubian houses, tools, fishing, ceremonies, and education. Here’s a depiction of traditional schooling:

There’s also a small section in which contemporary Nubian artifacts are on display.

Nubia Flooded: The Ravages of the Aswan Dam

The museum also has a large set of rooms that introduce viewers to what happened to dozens of ancient towns and temples when the Aswan Dam was built. The dam led to flooding upriver, and thousands of important sites were drowned. Black-and-white photographs of those sites pre-drowning tell a sobering tale of what was lost. The Temple of Debod, below, was one of the few temples that was relocated to prevent its destruction; it currently sits outside in a park in Madrid.

I learned a ton at the Nubian Museum — it’s definitely worth visiting for information about a culture and history that are largely overlooked. It’s not a perfect museum by any means; it’s dark, some items lack labels, and the attached open-air museum is nearly devoid of pieces. But a visit will only take you an hour and a half (an hour if you’re speedy), and you’ll come away with a much better understanding of this part of Egypt.

Nubian Village

The Nubian Village is exactly that: a village a short motorboat ride south of Aswan with traditional Nubian homes.

Riots of Color: Nubian House Painting

One of the most distinctive features of traditional Nubian houses is the colorful painting on the walls, both inside and out.

Over time, the Nubian Village has attracted more and more tourists — so you’ll have to make it through dozens of souvenir shops to find your way to the more interesting artwork, such as the pieces on this giant mural …

… and the designs on this mosque:

Local Craft: Shopping in the Nubian Village

The good news is that the Nubian Village shops do carry some traditional Nubian craftwork, basketry being a prime example.

Is the Nubian Village worth visiting? For my money, it’s far too touristy. But there’s no better place to see traditional Nubian art and architecture if Aswan is the southernmost point in your Egyptian adventure (which it is for most people). So while I did not love the tourist-gimmicks-to-real-life ratio, I’m glad I went.

Exploring more of Egypt? Don’t miss my post on Visiting the Egyptian Museum in Cairo for a closer look at Tutankhamun’s treasures — or head north to discover another hidden gem in Fayoum: Egypt’s Desert Surprise.