It’s easy to fall in love with Plovdiv, marvel at the churches in Sofia, or laze at the overcrowded resorts of the Black Sea. But if you really want to find the soul and beauty of Bulgaria, travel to south. From bagpipes to butterflies, and from villages to vistas, here’s why you’ll want to visit Bulgaria’s Rhodope Mountains.

Forming much of the country’s southern border, the hidden highlands of the Rhodopes ended up being my favorite part of my visit to Bulgaria.

Meadows Instead of Museums

Don’t get me wrong — I love a museum. But sometimes, I just want to breathe in clean air and take a walk with views like these. You can enjoy the great outdoors in so many ways: from treks through river gorges and explorations of caves to winter skiing and casual strolls near tiny mountain towns.

After the noise and chaos of city life, it’s amazing to get away to nothing but the sound of rushing water…

… and the stillness of the trees.

Legend has it that the mythical musician Orpheus was born in these mountains, and it’s easy to imagine the beauty of these hidden highlands inspiring his songs. We didn’t go far off the beaten path — we just hiked along mountain thoroughfares, ski trails, and logging roads near the itty-bitty town of Stoykite — but we still managed to find many special places.

Flowers, Not Facts

Just as I love being outside, I love everything that comes with it — especially the many wildflowers in bloom in high summer.

The whole place feels so alive — fluttering wings seem to be everywhere as butterflies and other flying creatures enjoy the colorful blooms.

Bagpipes Over Tour Buses

I saw exactly zero tour buses in the Rhodopes — but I did see bagpipes!

Those are the dulcet tones of the kaba gaida, also known as the rodopska gaida, the traditional goat-skin bagpipe of the central Rhodope Mountains. Unlike the Scottish bagpipe that many of us know (and try to love), the kaba gaida has only one drone — meaning just one low note plays in the background (produced by a single pipe). So whereas a Scottish bagpipe has four pipes sticking out of it (three drones and one chanter— the part one actually plays), the kaba gaida has only two.

I will admit that the look of the kaba gaida gives off plucked chicken vibes, but that only makes me love it more.

That’s not a real bagpipe — it’s a model that hangs outside the Gaida Bagpipe Museum in Stoykite. We tried to visit but never found the museum open, so we settled for leaning on the Stoykite town sign — which features a bagpipe — instead.

Bagpipes might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I’m always up for a bit of local folk music.

Mountain Churches Rather Than Monuments

All churches make me happy — I don’t think I’ll ever forget the onion domes of the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker in Sofia — but there’s something especially joyful about a church tucked away in the hills. Whether it’s perched high atop a peak or nestled among forest trees, a quiet mountain church always makes me smile. It may be a spot visited only by its caretakers each week or a full-fledged tourist attraction — but if there are mountains nearby, I’m all in.

Churches here come in all shapes and sizes, from this unnamed chapel on a dirt road high above Grashtitsa and Stoykite, with a handmade cross built into the weathered gate …

… to the surprisingly ornate Church of the Assumption in storybook Shiroka Laka …

… to the warren-like complex at Bachkovo Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Asenovgrad that’s been around since the 11th century. That makes it one of the oldest monasteries in the Balkan Peninsula, though most of the buildings on the grounds are much newer. It’s well worth a visit to see the multiple churches with their impressive frescoes — and the setting up against the green hills can’t be beat.

Bachkovo is well-visited for many reasons, and they’re not just about age or fame. It’s a place for peeking into unlabeled buildings and wondering what you’ll find, for trying to decode the stories told in the bright colors on the walls — and maybe even for having a chapel all to yourself.

Bean Soup Instead of Cocktails

Oh my. Food in the Rhodopes is hearty and delicious. There’s nothing fancy here, but it’s all so good. I had bean soup so transformative I immediately went searching for the recipe, sour yogurt with honey that drew me in slowly, and a potato and cheese pie that made me keep eating even when I was already full. Menus are long and exciting — you just want to order everything you see.

The Rhodopes are known for fresh, locally-made cheese, fragrant herbs — think nettle, spearmint, thyme, savory, and cumin — and a wide variety of beans (including the multicolored Smilyan bean, which has been granted protected status by the Bulgarian government).

Don’t hesitate to try things, even if there’s no English menu in sight — just ask. You may be surprised by what you find. I had one of the best cappuccinos of my life at Stoykite’s unassuming but charming Restaurant Borika, served in a perfectly delicate green-and-white china teacup.

Right across the street is a cafe so new it doesn’t even have a name — but this place is definitely worth tracking down for its magical elixir of lemon, orange, elderflower, mystery leaves, and the tiniest, sweetest summer strawberries you’ve ever had in your life.

Everyday Life Instead of Landmarks

Sometimes it’s the little things that make me fall in love with a place, the pieces of everyday life that remind that you’re exploring a new landscape. In the Rhodopes, these included a man walking down the street with a scythe …

… roofs with stone slabs and chimney tops that look like little houses …

… and the fur dolls that recall the kukeri mummers of the region (they don large masks, bells, and costumes every winter to scare away the evil spirits).

It’s easy to focus on the museums and monuments in the guidebooks, but these small discoveries are one of my favorite parts of travel.

Visit Bulgaria’s Rhodope Mountains: Final Bits of Wisdom

• Unless you are an avid road biker, you’ll absolutely need a car to explore the Rhodope Mountains. Be prepared for a lot of twisty-turny driving.
• The best times to visit are in spring and fall, though this depends on elevation. I was very happy to be there in the summer at 1,500 meters, with warm days and cool nights, but I imagine it would have been uncomfortably hot further down in the valleys. No matter when and where you go, pack layers.
• Bring both Bulgarian leva and Google Translate. Most places still run on cash, and you won’t find many English speakers in rural villages.
• Go to the Western Rhodopes if you want drama: the highest peaks, the narrowest gorges, and the deepest caves. Go east if you want wildlife, including some really impressive raptors like vultures and eagles. The middle is filled with rolling hills and lush meadows.
• The best known part of the Rhodopes are probably the Smolyan Lakes. Their reputation also means that they are the most heavily touristed, so be prepared for more crowds if that’s an area you want to visit.