At first glance, the tiny Caribbean island of Bonaire may look like a moon rock — but then you’ll spot a flash of pink in the sky, cactus-covered cliffs plunging into the ocean, or the silhouette of a turtle the moment you slip under the water. Bonaire has an exciting wild side, on land as well as in the sea. There’s nothing quite like Bonaire wildlife. Here are three ways to experience this island’s unique ecosystem.

Find Flamingos

Nothing quite prepares you for a flock of flamingos in flight — necks extended, pink-and-black wings beating steadily, legs stretched behind or dangling awkwardly. And it’s always noisy! A sort of screech-like honking fills the air. This isn’t a sight you see every day, and it’s one of the things that makes this place special.

The Caribbean flamingo, Phoenicopterus ruber, is the national bird of Bonaire — known Papiamentu, the island’s Creole language, as the Chogogo. Bonaire hosts between 5,000 and 15,000 of these large pink birds, making it home to one of the largest breeding colonies in the world.

Where to See Bonaire’s Flamingos

You can see them on many different parts of the island, including Lac Bay in the southeast, Goto Lake in Washington Slagbaai National Park in the north…

… Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary at the island’s south tip …

… and in the long stretch of salt flats that line the road just north of the flamingo sanctuary.

Even if you don’t see any birds, the pink salt flats are worth a stop — they hold the secret to the flamingo’s gaudy coloring.

Why Are They Pink?

A specific variety of algae, Dunaliella salina, thrives in the salt flats’ highly saline waters. That tiny organism produces beta carotene — the same stuff that’s in carrots. Brine shrimp eat this algae, and they turn pink — then the flamingos eat the shrimp, and the birds change color in turn.

This means that juvenile flamingos are actually gray, and their color shifts as they get older. You’ll see some young ones in the middle of this flamboyance (one of the words for a flock of flamingos).

We were lucky enough to be up just after sunrise for feeding time at a conservation center that feeds flamingos as part of a rescue effort, and it was amazing to see the birds actually run back and forth at breakfast time.

We didn’t know if this rescue organization wanted tourists hanging out by the side of the road at feeding time — this is not intended as a public event, and the flamingo rehab folks want a quiet, distraction-free area for their birds. So while I’m sharing the location, I can say that it was a magical sight.

Notes on Spotting Flamingos in Bonaire

• For the best chance of seeing flamingo activity, such as flying, your best bet is to head out early in the morning or just before sunset.
• Can you see wild flamingos up close in Bonaire? The island’s flamingos face challenges from changing salinity, rising sea levels, and human encroachment. They are protected by law, and human contact may cause them stress — so please watch from a respectful distance.
• Because of these protections, it’s possible that you will only see flamingos from afar. Don’t be discouraged, and know that binoculars or a zoom lens will give you a better view.

Discover Dramatic Landscapes

For craggy rocks that plunge into the ocean, cacti of all shapes and sizes, and limestone terraces with ancient coral imprints, head to Washington Slagbaai National Park. This 10,000-acre protected area was the first nature sanctuary of the Netherlands Antilles, so it has had many decades to develop as a wild area.

Make sure to stop at Seru Grandi, or “Big Mountain,” where you can see evidence of uplifted coral reef shelves dating back about 2 million years (Bonaire is, essentially, a giant coral reef that’s been pushed out of the sea over the millennia).

… cacti of all kinds, including multiple species of columnar and melon cacti …

… tiny beaches dotting the water’s edge …

… fossils of coral that long ago rose up from the sea bed …

… and the ocean crashing into the rough coastline.

If you catch a blowhole at the right moment, you might hear a tremendous roar.

As you drive through the park, you wonder how this arid, hot, and windy landscape can possibly support any life.

Lizards & Birds

But if you stop and get out of the car, you may spot green iguanas, Bonaire whiptail lizards (locally known as the blauw-blauw) …

… or any of the 210 species of birds that call this park home, including flamingos, pelicans, crested caracaras, and parrots.

Make sure to stop at one of the salinas, or salt lakes, to see the flamingos and shorebirds enjoying protected feeding grounds. They’re one of the reasons that the whole park has been recognized as an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International.

Washington Slagbaai is a wonderful and wild part of the world, part lunar landscape, part desert scrub, and part ocean drama. A visit here is a fantastic opportunity to see nature at its most vital and courageous — it’s hard to imagine that anything can live here at all. And that makes everything you see all the more wonderful.

How To Visit Bonaire Wildlife and Wonders at Washington Slagbaai National Park

• You must have personal ID and your STINAPA pass to enter the park. This serves as your entrance fee.
• Arrive early in the morning! You’ll be in the park for 3-4 hours, and you’ll want to avoid the afternoon heat.
• Bring sunscreen, a hat, snacks, and lots of water — it’s hot, and there are few facilities once you pass the entrance.
• The roads are rough. Your average rental car may be able to make it — we managed — but a 4WD vehicle would be better.
• You’ll be offered a choice between the long loop and the short loop. Definitely choose the long loop for the scenery.
• Snorkel elsewhere — there are better spots outside the park.
• Restrooms are scarce — use the one at the entrance (and don’t miss the cheeky men’s room sign — it’s almost worth a stop by itself).

Explore Bonaire’s Marine Life

If you love what you find on land, you may love what you see underwater even more. Bonaire is a diver’s and snorkeler’s paradise —especially if you’re excited to see turtles, fish, sponges, soft coral, sea fans, and even squid. The entire island — and its smaller sister island, Klein Bonaire — is surrounded by an easily accessible fringing reef system. This means that once you pass the shallows, you can access marine life within minutes.

One of the most exciting things here is the chance that you’ll see a bait ball, a school of bigeye mackerel (masbango) that swarm in shallow waters, often with a hungry barracuda or tarpon on top. It’s amazing to watch these balls of fish change shape as they move through the water, all darting together at once (if you’d like to explore this phenomenon further, this article is worth a read).

Other underwater highlights in Bonaire include parrotfish (they’re everywhere) …

… Christmas tree worms (who knew a worm could be this beautiful?) …

… magnificent purple sea fans (they wave in the water!) …

… cowfish (love the honeycomb pattern) …

… vivid purple stove-pipe sponges (aptly named) …

… lettuce sea slugs (the best of the small stuff) …

… and squid (it’s amazing to watch them swim in formation — ignore the volume and focus on the one on the left changing color).

While boat diving is available, one of the most attractive features is that you can just look for a yellow painted rock by the side of the road, pull over, get your gear, and walk in.

Threatened Coral

If there’s one drawback to diving and snorkeling in Bonaire, it’s that the whole reef has been hit hard by Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD). This fast-spreading disease has been killing the hard, reef-building corals across the Caribbean at an alarming rate. You can see this in progress — a once bright-orange coral is turning white — just above this anemone:

That said, for high visibility, all sorts of critters, and water so blue you won’t believe it, Bonaire is still a very exciting place to swim beneath the waves.

If you want to explore Bonaire’s reefs with an expert, I highly recommend going out with Larry at Bonaire Scuba. It’s a lot more expensive than heading out on your own, but you’ll know that you’re in good hands.

Before You Get In the Water: Tips for Snorkeling & Diving in Bonaire

• Get a map — your rental car company will likely give you one. There are dozens of places to dive and snorkel.
• Rental gear is widely available on the island — you don’t need to bring your own. That said, as a committed snorkeler, I always travel with my own mask, snorkel, and booties for comfort.
• If you’re snorkeling, bring reef-safe sunscreen and a rash guard.
• All dive spots are marked by yellow rocks along the road.
• Not every dive site makes a good snorkel site. Check a guidebook or ask a dive shop before picking your snorkel spots.
• Wear good reef shoes or dive booties, and watch your entries carefully. Getting in the water isn’t always as easy as it looks.
• The whole reef is a protected area, so you’ll need a STINAPA nature card — the same one required by the national park — before you hop in.
• It’s worth taking the water taxi from downtown Kralendijk to Klein Bonaire for snorkeling.

Further Reading: Beyond Bonaire Wildlife

• If you love snorkeling, check out my posts on snorkeling in Australia, The Maldives, and Indonesia (both Bunaken National Park and Raja Ampat).
• Still wondering whether Bonaire should be your next travel destination? I’ll help you decide in this post.