If you’re in northern Greece, it’s worth making your way to the site of Ancient Philippi, an archaeological wonder. Interestingly, it’s not a place to see many Greek ruins — instead, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site recognized for its importance to Roman and Christian history. With amazing ruins to explore, it’s best experienced on a self-guided walking tour.

A Short History

Why come to Philippi? Before you start exploring, it’s worth knowing why this place matters. Here are the city’s key claims to fame:

• Founded by Thracians just over two thousand years ago.
• Conquered by Philip II of Macedon just a few years later — who promptly named the small settlement after himself.
• Taken over by the Romans —and in 42 BC, it became the site of a decisive battle between the forces of Caesar’s heirs — Marc Antony and Octavian — and the armies of Cassius Longinus and Brutus (of “et tu, Brute?” fame).
• Octavian won, soon set up shop in Rome as emperor, constructed Philippi as a miniature Rome, and gave it a very long name: Colonia Augusta Iulia Philippensis.
• St. Paul preached the first Christian sermon on European soil in Philippi, baptized his first convert, and was imprisoned for his teachings in Philippi — all of which inspired his Letter to the Philippians.
• Byzantine rulers constructed major basilicas before an earthquake destroyed almost the entire city in 619 A.D. In subsequent years, the Byzantines lost control of a much-diminished Philippi to the Bulgarians, the Franks, and the Serbs.

Starting Your Walking Tour of Ancient Philippi

Ready to go? From the parking lot, walk past the cafe to the small ticket booth that marks the start of your journey. Look up at the hill to your right — the city walls once stood there, protecting Philippi from invaders. Our first stop is going to be at the wall’s eastern edge.

The Ancient Theatre of Philippi

The first major ruin you’ll see is the ancient Theater of Philippi — a massive, stone semi-circle built into the hillside — and wow, is it impressive. The original dates back to the days of Philip II of Macedon, who had it built at the same time as the city walls. The Romans later significantly expanded and reshaped the structure, eventually adding an underground space to keep wild animals for fights in the arena.

The theater started to crumble in the Christian era, when it was abandoned as a performance space and turned into an area for workshops. What we see today is the little that’s left after the earthquake of 619 collapsed the theater’s grand facade. But it’s still an amazing space. Make sure to walk up into the koilon — the tiered seating where spectators once sat — and imagine you’re watching a play by Seneca or Livius Andronicus.

Basilica A

You’ll have to use your imagination here — there’s not much left of Basilica A. But this was the site of the oldest and largest Christian complex in Philippi, consisting of a timber-roofed basilica, an atrium, and a courtyard. Picture frescoed walls, a baptismal fountain, and an impressive marble staircase leading to second-floor galleries. Sadly, Basilica A had a very short lifespan: built in the late 5th century AD, it collapsed during the great earthquake of 619, less than 150 years later. You have to gather what you can from the remains that still lie scattered nearby.

The Prison of Saint Paul

From here, follow the signs along the path and down the stairs to one of Philippi’s most famous sites: Saint Paul’s Prison.

The Philippians were none too pleased by the arrival of Paul the Apostle in their city: they had him publicly flogged for his preaching and then imprisoned for “throwing our city into an uproar” (Acts 16:20). According to legend, Paul then prayed for an earthquake, and when his chains came loose, the jailer was so convinced by Christ’s power that he had his entire family baptized. Paul was freed and left the city at the urging of the local magistrates, while the site of his imprisonment eventually became a place of worship and pilgrimage.

Archaeological Museum of Philippi

You won’t find good signage to your next route — there are multiple paths, so it’s a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure walk. Just keep your eyes on the only modern building in the distance: that’s the Archaeological Museum of Philippi.

This museum is key. It’s where everything comes together, where you really get a sense of how Philippi evolved over time. You’ll see the ages unfold from the pottery of pre-settlement Neolithic peoples to the mosaics of the late Byzantine era. You’ll learn about architecture, metalworking, and glassworks (the Romans built a studio right in the heart of town).

Don’t miss Philippi’s own Roman-era Fortuna (the goddess of luck), who wears a stylized copy of the city walls on her head …

…this mosaic from the earliest church in Philippi, with a dedication inscription to Paul…

…and this portable bronze solar clock, “a rare type of astronomical technology of late antiquity … to be used at latitudes from Alexandria to Vienna to France.”

There are many wonderful things here — and the museum offers a much-desired trickle of air conditioning.

The museum does have its frustrations: you’ll need to pay a separate entrance fee (doubling the price of your visit), and not everything is labeled (the amazing pieces arranged outside remain a complete mystery to me).

Finally, the air conditioning peters out exactly where you need it most: on the second floor. But unless you’re on a tight budget, I wouldn’t let any of these factors deter you from visiting.

The Roman Forum and Via Egnatia

Walk down from the museum to the Roman Forum — it’s impossible to miss. Built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius, it boasted a large central square, covered walkways (stoas), public fountains, and shops. It’s empty now, but imagine bustling trade in the commercial area…

… and citizens strolling past monuments and fountains near the busy Via Egnatia, the ancient Roman road that once carried warriors, traders, and pilgrims between Asia and Europe.

This wasn’t just any Roman forum — the layout and administration of Philippi were designed to mimic Rome itself, a choice made after Octavian’s victory in the Battle of Philippi. This concept of a “small Rome” in northern Greece gives the site added historical importance.

Feel free to wander around the ruins in any order you wish — as the UNESCO materials say, “the tour around the site depends on the point of entrance.” Just know that signage is limited, and you’ll spend a lot of time wondering what various stone objects might be. Keep this map on hand — and know that number 15 is the corner closest to the museum.

Basilica B and the Vespasians

Look east toward the tall towers —that’s Basilica B. Built around 550 AD — not long after Basilica A — it was designed as a luxurious domed church in the style of the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople.

You can’t get to Basilica B right now; it’s currently closed for renovations. When I visited, we discovered an unmarked driveway that led us closer to the site — but this wasn’t an official entrance, and an unhappy guard eventually asked us to leave. Still, Basilica B is the tallest ruin on site, so you can still admire its massive stone and brick walls from pretty much any distance.

Basilica B was built on top of the ruins of the Palaestra of Philippi, the city’s workout center for young men in earlier Roman times. These ruins included the Vespasians — a nickname for the town toilets, so called because emperor Vespasian had levied a tax on them.

The toilets, which could seat 42 people at the same time, have been excavated — but they are currently off-limits due to the construction zone around Basilica B.

The Octagon Church

Now it’s time to make your way to one of the first Christian churches built in all of Greece. Follow the signs to reach the ruins of the Octagon, built around 400 AD and dedicated to Saint Paul — in the very city where he had been imprisoned only 350 years earlier.

The name “Octagon” feels like a misnomer, since the church was a simple square on the outside, and you won’t see an octagon here at all (though we searched). The octagonal appearance only became visible once you stepped inside, a design created by adding a niche to each corner — perhaps because the number eight symbolized the resurrection in early Byzantine Christianity. The image below should help with the visuals.

What you will see here are the remains of the remarkable mosaic floor, now sheltered under a metal roof.

The Octagon was not just a church — it was a whole complex including a fountain, baths, and a monumental pillar. Unfortunately, the Octagon complex is a little difficult to figure out today — beyond the mosaics, it’s not clear what’s what. We spent a while looking for the ruins of the Baptistery and the Bishop’s Palace, but either they were not signed or they were roped off. So if you find yourself asking, “Hmmm … is that the Hellenistic Funerary Heroon, or is it just a jumble of rocks?” you’re not alone.

An Interlude

Once you’ve explored the area near the Octagon, with its unsigned ruins and scattered rubble, make your way to the exit. But don’t leave yet! After all that hot walking, there’s nothing better than a cool drink under the plane trees. Take your time, settle in, and absorb the local culture — this shady courtyard near the exit is as much a village hangout as it is a tourist café.

Baptistery of Lydia

If you want to see the spot where Saint Paul baptized his first convert in Europe — that’s Lydia there in the purple dress — you’ll have to stop walking for a bit. It’s a five-minute drive to the Baptistery of Lydia, a truly octagonal structure built in 1974.

We’re here for history, not ruins — but the history is excellent. It’s time to meet Lydia, a powerful local businesswoman who made her money selling expensive Tyrian purple dye — also known as royal purple — made from sea snails in the Muricidae family. Lydia was Jewish, but heard Apostle Paul preach by the River Zygaktis when he first came to Philippi and asked to be baptized. Tradition has it that she was baptized somewhere in this area, and the moment has been memorialized with a set of small bridges that forms a cross.

Her conversion made Lydia — now known as Saint Lydia of Thyatira, or simply “The Woman of Purple” — a significant historical figure, both in her own right and in the life of Paul. The church was built on this site to honor the role that Paul played in spreading Christianity in the region, and the mosaics and paintings inside pay homage to his life and travels.

Reflections on Ancient Philippi

Given the importance of Ancient Philippi in the history of Rome and early Christianity, I was shocked that there weren’t more people visiting. We had both the ruins and the baptistery almost entirely to ourselves. And both sites are fantastic, each in their own way. The ruins are grand and expansive, while the baptistery feels intimate. I was so glad to have spent a morning discovering Philippi.

Of course, no site is perfect. I desperately want more signage at the ruins, and a better sense of the optimal travel flow (I like choosing my own adventures, but there are limits). It would have been great if fewer ruins had been roped off. But I know — because I have now read a surprising amount of the Hellenic Republic’s Nomination for Inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List for Ancient Philippi — that they are working to make dozens of improvements. I’m excited to see their progress as the years go on.

Visit Tips

• Go first thing in the morning, the minute they open. Greece is hot — so hot. If you go later than 10:00, you’ll melt before you even reach the Forum.
• There is currently an entrance fee for adults of 10 Euros, plus another 10 Euros for the museum.
• Some of the paths are easy and accessible, but that’s not true for all of the ruins.
• Ancient Philippi is just a twenty-five minute drive from the northern Greek city of Kavala, whose charming old town is also worth a visit. It’s a longer drive — nearly two hours — from Thessaloniki.
• If you’re hungry after all of this walking, head into nearby Krinides for a truly traditional — and delicious — Greek lunch experience at ΓΕΥΣΗ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΡΑΔΟΣΗ. They don’t have a website, but this is how you can find them on Google Maps.

Want to see more Roman ruins with ancient theaters? Check out the Ancient Theater of Philippopolis in my post about nearby Plovdiv, Bulgaria. For even more grandeur, take a look at the ruins of both Ancient Ephesus and the Roman Theater of Aspendos in my post on the best places to visit in Turkey.

Looking for more to do nearby? The fabulous Old Town of Kavala is just a short drive away.

Photo credit for several of the pics in this post goes to my good friend and traveling companion, Nina Knoche.