Panagia — the peninsular Old Town of Kavala, Greece — is a wonderful warren of cobblestone streets and crumbling stairs and brightly painted buildings overlooking the Aegean Sea. It’s the kind of place that draws you in and makes you want to linger. But while I’m a big fan of slow, leisurely travel — of stopping and having a cappuccino (or ouzo) as you watch the world go by — sometimes time isn’t on your side. So if you’re short on time and long on curiosity, here’s a guide to make the most of your Kavala visit.

Wander Kavala’s Old Town Streets

If you have time for just one thing in Kavala’s Old Town, make it wandering the narrow streets lined with traditional houses. Kavala has been a port and trading hub since Roman times, ruled at various times by everyone from the Macedonians to the Ottomans. This has resulted in a rich mixture of architecture and design — you’ll find traditional Ottoman houses (above), traditional Greek houses (below), and plenty of styles in between.

Of course, the fun here isn’t just in the architecture — it’s in rounding a bend and not knowing what you might find.

It was a delight to suddenly come upon a sliver of sea, a pink oleander in bloom, or a cat sunning itself on a stone wall (more on the cats later).

Climb to the Fortress — and See the Best Views

You’ll earn your steps in visiting the Fortress of Kavala — it stands at the very top of the peninsula — but the views out over city and sea are worth both the climb and the entrance fee. Also known as the Acropolis of Kavala, or simply the Castle, the fortress is a 15th-century Ottoman creation, constructed atop Byzantine ruins. You can still see the Ottoman water cistern, guardhouse, food depot, and the entirety of the inner enclosure.

The highlight, though, is getting up as high as you can — either by climbing the narrow spiral staircase of the circular tower or walking carefully to the top of the fortress walls — to take in the very best views in town.

From here, you can see it all: the Ottoman aqueduct, the busy port, the red-tiled roofs of the Old Town, and the white apartment buildings clustered on the hillside of the new city beyond.

Explore Kavala’s Sacred Spaces

As you wander through town, you’ll come upon scattered houses of worship that reflect Kavala’s layered history. Remnants of the city’s Byzantine and Ottoman past often appear in a single place — such as the Halil Bey Mosque, which was built on top of an Early Christian basilica. You may not be able to go inside, but know that this mosque served as shelter for Greek families during the 1922-1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey (if you don’t know about this particular historical tragedy, it’s worth taking a moment to learn more).

The most famous mosque in Kavala has to be the Imaret, a religious complex founded by Muhammed Ali Pasha — he’s considered the founder of modern-day Egypt.

Built in the early 19th century atop Byzantine walls, the Imaret once housed a single-dome mosque, two madrasas, a soup kitchen, and several other facilities for charitable works. Today, the complex is famous for its elegant blend of Western and Ottoman architecture, including archways that frame the light, slender columns, and a courtyard with a stunning central pool. Unfortunately, the Imaret has been converted into a luxury hotel, so you can’t see the interior unless you are a paying guest (even if you ring the buzzer and ask nicely about tours).

From Ottoman Mosques to Ancient Churches

While these mosques bear witness to Kavala’s Ottoman past, its churches look further back in time, to the days when Paul the Apostle preached nearby and made his first European converts. The largest church in Kavala’s Old Town is the Holy Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, which stands just near the end of the Panagia peninsula.

The church itself is relatively new, built in 1965 after its crumbling 15th-century Byzantine predecessor was demolished (you’ll notice a recurring theme of building on top of Byzantine ruins in Kavala). Although the historic church is no longer standing, the current version still boasts an impressive collection of wall paintings, icons, and a chandelier adorned with decorated eggs hanging from the bottom tier.

Cool Off at Panagia’s Swimming Rocks

Your walking tour now takes you past the church, toward the school and the lighthouse that sit at the tip of the peninsula. Make sure you have a swimsuit, sunscreen, and a towel — you’re about to visit one of Kavala’s hidden gems: the Rocks of Panagia.

Skip the lighthouse (it’s surprisingly stubby, and getting there involves walking through the school grounds), and instead look for the paths on either side that lead down to the turquoise-blue waters of the Aegean.

The descent is well-built but steep — you’ll have to contend with a lot of stairs for this particular adventure. But wow, what a place to swim! If you squint, you might spot a few tiny figures bobbing in the calm water, enjoying this almost-private swimming spot. The rocks here are also a perfect place to lie back and soak up the warm Greek sunshine.

The Rocks of Panagia don’t show up in many guidebooks or travel blogs—this is a local swimming spot frequented by residents—so you might just have it all to yourself.

Discover Kavala’s Prettiest Doors

I have a thing for doors — and if the posters and postcards of the world are anything to go by, so do lots of other people. Kavala has its fair share of beauties — some Greek, some Ottoman, and some simply fanciful.

Keep your eyes peeled for the best of the best — bright paint, carved wooden panels, and wrought-iron scrollwork. Time might be limited, but these beauties deserve a stolen moment.

Old Town Bonus: Meet the Cats of Kavala

As promised, the cats of Kavala are here — and everywhere. You don’t have to look far; round any bend in Kavala’s Old Town, and you’re likely to spot one running along a wall, curled up in a nook, or lounging on a staircase. Some of these are pets, some are strays, but all are cared for — you’re sure to find little water bowls and scattered food along your walk.

Grand Monument Bonus: Marvel at the Ottoman Aqueduct

It’s not technically in Kavala’s Old Town, but if you have time, head down to see the Aqueduct of Kavala. Better known by its Greek name, the Kamares, it was constructed in the early 16th century during a building project ordered by Suleiman the Magnificent. In keeping with a trend we’ve already seen, this aqueduct was erected over Byzantine fortifications, and archaeological evidence suggests that a Roman aqueduct once stood in the same place.

Sixty arches of varying sizes line the two-tiered aqueduct, which stretches roughly 820 feet (250 meters) across the city. Used until 1911 to carry water from Mount Pangaeus to Kavala, this grand monument is now a symbol of the city and a reminder of its rich history.

Further Reading

Have more time? Check out my post on Ancient Philippi, a UNESCO World Heritage site with remarkable Roman, Early Christian, and Byzantine ruins just half an hour from Kavala.

Coming from Thessaloniki? Don’t miss my walking tour of the city and the Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum.