Sometimes a city surprises me, which happened when I found myself with an unexpected morning in Izmir. This city, the third-largest in Turkey, doesn’t make it to many tourist agendas — it’s a working port and industrial city, not necessarily known for its charms. But if you have half a day, there’s plenty to see and enjoy, from Roman ruins and waterfront views to vibrant markets and local snacks. Should you find yourself with the opportunity, take a chance on a morning in Izmir.

Walking Along the Water

Everything in this Izmir itinerary is very close together, so you can do it all on foot (here’s a Google Map with each stop so you can follow the route easily). Start your morning with a classic stroll down the Izmir Kordon, or Kordonboyu, a promenade that stretches over six kilometers down the Gulf of Izmir.

There’s no one right place to begin your walk, but to get the full experience, I would recommend starting somewhere near the Arkas Sanat Merkezi gallery. That will allow you to walk south through the park, with its lovely green grass and public art …

… before continuing down the long, paved boardwalk. When I visited, the sea was stormy and dramatic, with waves coming up over the side as the wind whipped along the water.

I really had to hold onto my hat! You’ll be happy to have some sea breezes, because there’s no shade on the Kordon. So it’s best to start this walk early, before the sun comes beating down.

The Busiest Square in Izmir

End your promenade at the Konak, the heart of the city.

This lively square features two significant landmarks. The first is the 1901 clock tower, an octagonal delight of marble and stone. This tower has seen its fair share of trials and tribulations: in 1974, an earthquake toppled the top; and during a 2016 attempted coup, someone stole the clock. But reparations of this beloved icon always happened quickly.

The other lovely sight here is the Konak Mosque, also known as the Yalı Mosque, a diminutive structure that’s as sweet a mosque as you’ll ever see.

Another octagon, this 1755 landmark has one dome, one minaret, and — unusually for a mosque — one entrance. Though there’s not much space inside, you’ll see worshippers flowing in and out for prayers all morning long. Make sure to get a good look at the tiles around the windows, which were especially made for the mosque in western Turkey.

You won’t want to spend too long here — there’s zero shade — but enjoy a bit of people watching before you dive into the crowded bazaar.

A Market Maze

Slip into the alleys just behind Konak Square, and you’re suddenly in another world. You’ll find yourself in the narrow, busy twist and turns of Kemeraltı Market, a thriving labyrinth of stalls and shoppers. This isn’t a tourist market — it’s a true, lively, local bazaar that dates back to the 17th century. So while you may stumble on the occasional stall selling Izmir magnets and Turkish evil eye pendants, you’re more likely to pass stalls selling pants, pots, and peppers.

And don’t forget the anchovies! You probably won’t buy any if you’re only in town for a morning, but they’re fun to see.

This place is a warren. I usually had no idea where I was, and I didn’t care. You could spend hours wandering here, shopping and checking out the wares — or you could stop to get your shoes shined on the most wonderful old-fashioned polisher I’ve ever seen.

If you have the time, slow down in this market and let yourself get lost. It may exhaust you, but there’s a lot to see.

Turkish Tea or Coffee for your Morning in Izmir

By now, you’re probably exhausted. There are plenty of places to eat at Kemeralti Market, especially in the center and at the edges. I stopped at Basdruak Yildirim, an overpriced but conveniently located tea shop for a much-needed break.

My coffee came with Turkish delight, which has never delighted me at all, and a sweet fruity drink called sherbet, which did. Hungry, I also indulged in sütlaç, a rice pudding that hit the spot.

Food in Turkey is amazing — they’re great with sweets, and I would have been equally happy with a savory snack of gözleme or kebabs. But unless you like your drinks sour and salty, stay away from şalgam, a mouth-puckering fermented black carrot juice.

Greek and Roman Ruins

Refreshed, make your way out of the bazaar and across the street to the Agora of Smyrna.

Izmir was once known as Smyrna, a major Mediterranean hub of trade and culture. When the Greeks and Romans were in power, this agora site would have been its administrative, judicial and commercial heart. The Greeks built an agora here in the 4th century BC, and though the Great Earthquake of Izmir destroyed the whole thing in 178 AD, Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius ordered that it be rebuilt. This update came with grand sculptures, monuments, and arches.

This would have been a heavily-ornamented city center, with sculpted columns, lintels, and rooftops.

Make sure to head into the shade for a look at the Council House and Mosaic Building, once a social and cultural center with a remarkable geometric floor (just ignore the holes).

Much though I love mosaics (check out my post on the Great Basilica of Plovdiv), I had the most fun in the basement galleries.

You’ll find rows and rows of arches here, great for both photography and shade. These were once some of the city’s most important streets, and they became part of the city’s water supply system by late Antiquity. Today, they’re just stunningly beautiful.

By the 7th century AD, the agora had fallen into disuse. Residents eventually turned the area into a prayer space and cemetery, and you can still see Ottoman-era grave markers today.

The Agora of Smyrna has its challenges: it’s poorly signed, there’s no logical path, and it’s blazingly hot. But if you want to see the foundations of this great city, there’s no better place to do it.

As a final note, it’s impossible to miss the cats in Turkey. This one followed me all over the agora.

Don’t expect much in the way of architectural charm or an old-world feel in Izmir. This is a modern, working city, with all of the hustle and bustle of daily life. But that meant that I didn’t really feel like a tourist (though I clearly looked like one). Instead, I was just part of everyone going about their days, with amazing sights along the journey. And that’s a great way to travel.

More Ideas for Your Morning in Izmir

Looking for a few more options for your Izmir itinerary? If you’d prefer to stay indoors, visit the Atatürk Museum, once home to the founder of modern Turkey, or the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography. For views out over the city, take a ride up the Asansör, a historic elevator, or climb to the top of the Kadifekale, a Greco-Roman hilltop fortress. Finally, if you want to get out on the Gulf, public ferry rides are quick and inexpensive.

Tips for Your Morning in Izmir

• If you follow this entire Izmir itinerary, you’ll have a busy morning. Give yourself at least four hours.
• All of this is easily walkable.
• Head out early for cooler temperatures.
• Bring a hat and water — there’s very little shade outside the market.
• Have Google Maps ready when you need to wend your way out of the bazaar to get to the ruins.
• Expect uneven terrain and stairs at the ruins.
• Izmir is safe and friendly. I had a lovely morning as a solo traveler.

Further Adventures in Turkey and Greece

• If you’re headed to the famous ruins at Ephesus, be sure to leave time for the Ephesus Archaeological Museum.
• Planning to take in the sun and sea at nearby Çeşme and Alaçatı? There’s plenty to do beyond the beaches.
• Should your travels take you to the nearby Greek island of Chios, I recommend staying in the beautifully preserved village of Mesta and taking day trips around the island.
• Starting or ending your trip in Istanbul? Take a look at my 3-day itinerary, a perfect place to start for first-time visitors.
• Thinking about a trip to Turkey and still in the planning stages? Here are 18 reasons to go, and the best places to visit once you arrive.