You’ll find plenty of charming villages in Chios, a Greek island in the northern Aegean that sits just off the coast of Turkey. But none can match the medieval beauty, interest, and peacefulness of Mesta. I’ve stayed in dozens of towns in Greece, and only a handful come close to Mesta’s magic. There are so many reasons to stay in Mesta, Chios — here are some of the best.

An Intact Medieval Village

How often do you have the chance to stay inside an perfectly preserved 12th-century town? Mesta has changed little since the Middle Ages. Built in a mix of Byzantine and Genoese architectural styles, this tiny village still exists within its original pentagonal layout.

Designed to Deter Pirates

Not only do you get to stay in a medieval town, but you get to stay in one built to keep pirates at bay. All of Mesta’s notable design features — thick stone walls, a lack of exterior-facing windows, and narrow entrance gates — served to keep the bad guys out and the good guys in. Fortified once towers stood at each of the town’s five corners — you can see one in the photo above — to provide the villagers with added defense.

Why were there so many pirates around? They were trying to steal mastic, a tree resin used for everything from medicine to chewing gum -— and a closely guarded local secret.

Life in a Labyrinth

All of these pirate deterrents mean that the streets wind through Mesta like a maze, and the whole place becoms a warren of twisting alleys and unexpected dead ends. Who doesn’t want to stay in a place where you can get lost and then find yourself again?

Arched Alleyways

These stone walls and curving passageways make Mesta a beautiful place to wander. Every twist and turn brings another new alley, many overhung with archways or sprays of bougainvillea.

Narrow Churches

“Narrow” describes nearly everything in Mesta, including its multiple churches. One of the oldest, the Church of St. George, dates back to the beginning of the 1500s. You’ll probably find it locked, but you can peek inside at the icon-covered ceiling and walls.

Quiet Mesta Morning Walks

Mornings in Mesta are special — there’s a hush just before the village starts to wake up. You can have the cobblestone alleys all to yourself, or you can walk up into the fields that surround the village, wending your way past gnarled olive trees as you go.

Pedestrians Only

You can’t fit a car down these streets! This means that Mesta is walkable and unusually sane (if you’ve ever been walking on a narrow street in Greece as a car tries to squeeze by, you’ll know what I mean).

Just Enough Cute Chios Shops

Here’s what I love about a village with a few cute boutiques: they’re there if you find yourself with a shopping impulse, and you can completely ignore them if that’s not your speed. Mesta fits this bill perfectly. Oh, and don’t miss the town grocer, ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΙΚΗ ΓΗl, where the shopkeepers will give you tastes of local mastic, wines, and liqueurs. Try the souma, made from fermented figs and served in the most fantastic green bottle.

Cake in Mesta’s Town Square

Modern-day bards should sing odes to Greek town squares, with their plane trees shading the tables and locals out enjoying their coffees. Mesta would deserve a place in those songs — especially Maona, a coffee shop and cocktail bar that serves a particularly delicious orange cake.

Rustic Village Doors

I love a good door, and Mesta has them in spades — green, brown, and blue, paint-flecked, set deep into the stone walls. Wander and enjoy.

Easy Day Trip Access

Want to visit the mastic villages of Pyrgi and Olympi, local caves, the Mastic Museum, or some of the most beautiful beaches Greece has to offer? Mesta sits just a stone’s-throw away from all of these. You can read more about all of these — and more — in my post on day trips from Mesta.

Tips on Staying in Mesta

• Where to Stay: We loved our nights at Mesta Mastic, a hotel with guest rooms scattered around the medieval alleys (I stayed in a building that used to be part of the old monastery). The proprietors could not have been nicer or more helpful, and the rooms were a dream.
• How Long to Stay: I would recommend at least 2-3 nights to enjoy everything Mesta and the surrounding area have to offer.
• When to Go: Mesta is at its best — and most active — between April and October (many places in Chios close down for the winter). We went in September, just past the summer heat and crowds.
• Driving & Parking: You’ll want a rental car for day trips. There’s easy parking in a municipal lot just outside the town walls.
• Accessibility: Mesta is all uneven cobblestones, all the time. We saw strollers, wagons, and a wheelchair during our visit, but it looked like a rough go.
• Luggage: You’ll need to walk into town, so a bag with wheels is essential. But you’ll be bump, bump, bumping over the cobblestones — so a backpack will be even better.
• Nightlife: There isn’t any — Mesta is blissfully quiet at night. If you want a beach scene, bars, or clubs, you’ll be happier elsewhere in Chios.

Coming to Chios from Çeşme or Izmir? I have a full post on the lively Turkish Riviera cities of Çeşme and Alaçatı — and if you’re flying into Izmir, consider spending a morning enjoying the sites.

Love fortified villages in Greece? Check out my post on ancient Mycenae, the legendary hilltop citadel on the Greek mainland.