Traveler Tina

3 Days in Istanbul

in
Asia,Europe,Turkey,Turkey

Istanbul is a city rich in history and culture. Straddling Europe and Asia, criss-crossed by multiple strategically important waterways, it has been controlled by everyone from the Greeks to the Ottomans. It has been known by many names — Byzantium, Constantinople, and Istanbul — and it has grown to become the largest city in Turkey (now known formally as Türkiye) by millions of people. All of this means that there is a tremendous amount to see and do in Istanbul. If you have just a few days, here’s how you might want to spend them.

Day 1: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, & Turkish Bath

We’re going to start by hitting some of Istanbul’s most significant highlights. They’re all in the same area, so you won’t have to walk too far. Start out by visiting the Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofia in Turkish), which may be the most famous landmark in the city. The lines for tickets and entry are crazy-long, so get there early!

Aya Sofia

Built in 537 CE, the Hagia Sophia is famous both being both an architectural wonder and the center of multiple religious and cultural traditions. At the time of its construction, it was the largest interior space in the world, and it remained the largest church in the world for the next 1000 years. But its size was less important than its architectural influence: the Hagia Sophia was the first to have a dome of its kind, and it quickly became the standard for Orthodox Byzantine churches (and later, Ottoman mosques). Institutionally, the building has undergone many changes: it has been an Eastern Orthodox church (twice), a Catholic church, a museum, and a mosque (also twice, and that’s its current form).

Once you’ve finished your visit (don’t miss the outstanding mosaics) …

… take a short stroll past the tulips in Sultanahmet Park

… as you make your way to the Blue Mosque.

Constructed in the early 1600s, the Blue Mosque is considered a paragon of classical Ottoman architecture, and its elaborate painting and bountiful Iznik tiles make it a truly beautiful sight.

Next you’ll want to head to the Basilica Cistern. You may be thinking, quite reasonably, “who wants to spend their time visiting a water receptacle?” The answer is: everyone.

The Basilica Cistern is an amazing place. Built in the 6th century, early in the Byzantine era, this cistern has 336 columns that support a room that can hold 2,800,000 cubic feet of water. Today it’s been emptied of most of its water, and you can walk through and just admire the structural beauty — and be amazed that the builders used a few old Roman statues of Medusa as column bases.

At this point, you’ve seen a lot! It’s time for a late lunch and a relaxing visit to a Turkish Bath. You’ll have your pick — they’re all over the city — so you’ll want to make your choice based on location and cost. If you’re willing to splurge, the Cistern is right next to Hurrem Sultan Hammam, which has been around since the 16th century.

Day 2: Topkapi Palace & Bosporus Cruise

Start your day with a visit to Topkapi Palace. This is another one with the potential for long lines, so it’s best if you book tickets ahead and arrive as early as possible (they open at 9 or 10, depending on the season). And the palace is enormous; it’s worth allotting several hours for your visit.

Topkapi Palace sat at the very heart of the Ottoman Empire from the 1460s through the 1850s; it was the home of the Ottoman sultans and the administrative center of their government. After the dismantling of the Ottoman Empire following World War I, the palace became a museum. You can only see a fraction of the former palace today, but the parts you can see are entirely worth it. Start out by strolling through the first and second courtyards, and make sure to look up at the roofs and ceilings as you’re walking along!

There’s a lot to see once you get to the second courtyard, including the Imperial Council, the Imperial Treasury (a.k.a. the Outer Treasury, now home to the armory collection), and the palace kitchens. At the point, the palace becomes a choose-your-own-adventure visit, because it will be challenging to see everything (but doable if you have enough time and stamina). Do make sure to check out the kitchens, where you can see giant cauldrons, kitchen dioramas, and selections from the palace porcelain collection.

Next, head to the third courtyard to see the audience chamber, the pages’ dormitory (now home to a collection of miniatures and portraits), the harem, and many other important buildings.

A highlight here is the Inner Treasury, also called the Conqueror’s Pavilion, which is one of the oldest sections of the palace. Here you can see imperial bling and clothing — it’s an impressive collection.

End your visit to the palace in the Fourth Courtyard, which has a view out over the water and the newest (and most ornately decorated) palace buildings.

Have lunch before you head out to a river cruise, which will take you along the Bosporus Strait, the Sea of Marma, and the Golden Horn.

As you motor along, you’ll get a great sense of Istanbul’s history, because this is a city built on waterways. Istanbul is both connected and divided by its many bodies of water; they are part of what makes the city such a strategically desirable location. A Bosporus boat trip will take you by mosques, palaces, fortresses, houses, bridges and more.

There are lots of river cruise options out there, but I would recommend Velena Travel. They have amazing guides and boats, and they’ll pick you up at your hotel. They also offer sunset cruises if you’d prefer an evening experience.

Day 3: The Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, Old City, Beyoğlu … and Cats

This is a big walking day — wear comfortable shoes! You’ll start by diving into the Sultanahmet District, also known as the Old City. Begin at the hyper-touristy but delightful Grand Bazaar, which is one of the oldest and largest covered shopping centers in the world. It’s been around since the mid-1400s, and there are 61 streets inside!

If you want souvenirs — scarves, lamps, carpets, pottery — this is the place for you.

But this area isn’t just for tourists; the area in and around the Grand Bazaar is one of Istanbul’s largest gold and jewelry centers, and you can buy everything from bangles to blocks of pure gold.

The Grand Bazaar is a bit of a warren once you get inside, so pay attention to where you’ve been and where you’re going. You could truly get lost here.

Once you find your way out, head north in the direction of the Spice Bazaar. En route, enjoy the colorful streets of vendors selling textiles, notions and clothing.

Your next stop, the Spice Bazaar, is younger, smaller, and more manageable than its Grand Bazaar cousin (it houses only 85 shops to the Grand Bazaar’s 4,000).

Built in the 1600s, the Spice Bazaar used to be the center of the Istanbul spice trade …

… but the spice vendors are now being overtaken by tourist-oriented sellers of Turkish delight and other candies.

As you leave, make your way west along the Kutucular Cadessi so that you can see a more local market area (warning: it can get very crowded on weekends).

Once the street ends, head north to the Galata Bridge, where you can walk across the Golden Horn as you watch the fishermen at work.

Once you’ve made it across, you want to look for Karaköy Station. This is the gateway to the Tünel, a funicular that claims to be the second-oldest subway in the world (the London Underground takes first place). You’ll need a ticket for the “short and joyous” ride uphill to Beyoğlu Station. This will take you to the very different, very active Beyoğlu area.

Unlike the Old City, Beyoğlu has wide, open streets and rows of 19th century buildings. You feel like you’re in an entirely different part of the world — now you’re in the Istanbul of consulates, patisseries, and fancy shops.

In a perfect world, your final stop of the afternoon would be Galata Tower. Sadly, it’s closed for repairs at the moment, but this 1348 watchtower stands proudly at the top of Beyoğu and is well worth a visit for a view out over the city.

You can stay in Beyoğlu for dinner or head back to the Old City. If you opt for the latter, I would recommend the simple but excellent Valley Hills Cafe & Restaurant. And as you walk back, keep an eye out for examples of traditional Turkish house architecture…

Dede Effendi’s house

… and, of course, cats — because it wouldn’t be Istanbul without them.

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