If you’re visiting Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, don’t miss the chance to see the world’s tallest free-standing totem pole. The Beacon Hill Story Pole stands proudly near the southern tip of Beacon Hill Park, which is worth a visit all on its own. Enjoy an hour or three exploring First Nations cultural treasures, oceanside paths, flower beds, and more.

The World’s Tallest Free-Standing Totem Pole: The Beacon Hill Story Pole

Originally carved in 1956 from a 133-foot cedar tree, this 127-foot Kwakwaka’wakw (a.k.a. Kwakiutl) masterpiece is a highlight of a visit to Beacon Hill Park. But the average life span of a totem pole is about fifty years, so the impressive woodwork and painting here were the result of both a major restoration project in 2001 and then a cleaning and touch-up endeavor in 2011.

This thing is really huge. You can only appreciate the scale if you’re looking all the way up – or if you see someone standing underneath it.

It’s important to note that some First Nations people prefer the terms “legend pole” or “story pole” to “totem pole.” The reasoning here is that the word “totem” comes from an Algonquian language, and it refers to kinship groups rather than carvings that commemorate family lineage or cultural heritage. I am calling them “totem poles” here because that’s how local signage reads, but I want to acknowledge that terminology varies.

Want to see the tallest totem pole in the world – albeit not a freestanding one? You’ll need to head to tiny Cormorant Island and visit the even tinier town of Alert Bay to find their 173-foot supported tour de force.

A Walk Along the Strait of Juan de Fuca

The Beacon Hill Story Pole overlooks the Strait of Juan de Fuca:

You can take a lovely walk along the water here.

Gardens and Peacocks: Inside Beacon Hill Park

Beacon Hill Park is a lovely urban getaway, which the city calls “the crowning jewel in Victoria’s park system.”

In season, you’ll find all sorts of beautiful annuals and perennials …

… as well as fields of wildflowers.

For animal lovers, the park is home to ducks …

… and a surprising collection of peacocks.

If you’re lucky, you’ll catch one in all of its resplendent glory.

If you’re looking to visit, Beacon Hill Park is an easy 10-15 minute walk from downtown Victoria, and it’s another 15 minutes or so from there to the Story Pole. Give yourself at least an hour to explore the park – and if you have two hours, that’s even better.

Beyond Beacon Hill

Just at the edge of Beacon Hill Park lies mile zero of the Trans-Canada highway.

A few blocks south of this major roadway lies Thunderbird Park, home to totem poles from First Nations peoples including Gitxsan, Haida, and Kwakwaka’wakw.

The prominent feature of this park is Wawadit’la, a Kwakwaka’wakw “big house,” created by Mungo Martin – the same carver who took the lead in building the world’s tallest totem pole.

There’s a lot to like in Victoria. My eastern Canadian friends think that the island is a bit stale – they say that it’s for “newlyweds, flowerbeds, and nearly deads” – but I would love to return.

When would I go? July and August promise the warmest weather – but also the largest crowds. Instead, I would look at a trip between March and May for spring flowers or September and October for mild autumn days.

Getting to Beacon Hill: The Vancouver-Victoria Ferry

The city itself aside, one of the best things about Victoria is getting there! To reach the city from Vancouver, you take a 90-minute ride on a large ferry across the Salish Sea.

On a clear day, you can spend the whole voyage out on the deck – though you’ll need to be prepared for some pretty windy conditions.

You’ll have beautiful views as you go, including boats, seaplanes, and rocky islands dotted with evergreens and lighthouses.

Make sure to look out for the mountains off in the distance – you get both the Olympic Range and the Cascade Range in one boat ride. It’s amazing to watch Mount Baker come into view.

Enjoy the views – they’re a terrific highlight any time of day.

Quick Vancouver-Victoria Ferry Tips

• Ride time: The ferry ride itself takes about 95 minutes
• Total time: If you include driving and terminal wait time, plan on 3 to 4 hours each way
• Tickets: Check the BC Ferries website for schedules, prices, and reservations

If you’ll be spending time in Vancouver, I also have posts on 13 fun things to do in Vancouver, exploring Granville Public Market, and visiting the beautiful VanDusen Botanical Garden.