There’s a lot to see in Chinatown, from temples to tea shops to Michelin-starred hawker stalls — it’s one of the few neighborhoods in Singapore that can easily cause sensory overload. Blank walls are hard to come by. But that’s a good thing, because where the rows of shophouses end, you may find one of the many murals of Singapore’s Chinatown.

Old Trades on New Walls

Start with “Old Trades,” a mural on Mohamad Ali Lane by Yip Yew Chong, a local artist who seems to be responsible for an astonishing amount of Chinatown’s outdoor art. It’s easy to see why — he captures old Singapore beautifully. In addition to his depiction of the paper mask and puppet seller above, Chong uses this mural to show us snapshots of a lion dance head maker …

… a mamak shop (convenience store) …

… and these samsui women (Chinese immigrants who came to Singapore mainly in the 1920s and 1930s to work in Singapore’s construction industry).

History on Chinatown Walls

You can find a very different take on samsui women in one of the murals hidden at the back of the Amoy Street Food Centre.

This string of murals, designed and painted by students at the Anglo-Chinese School, explores themes from Amoy Street’s history and mythology.

Almost all of the paintings in Chinatown connect to the neighborhood’s history in some way; you can see an impression of a traditional Chinese roofscape …

… this woman in fancy Chinese dress (with Singapore’s Marina Bay juxtaposed in the background) …

… and even Bruce Lee!

Lanterns Everywhere

Traditional Chinese lanterns are a common theme, both on the walls …

… and strung all across the streets of Chinatown.

Signs of the Present

Reflections of the neighborhood’s heritage are everywhere. Indeed, I only found three pieces of street art that appeared not to have any connection to China or days of Singapore gone by: this bit of optical fun …

… these very active stick figures …

… and this tag, some of the only street art I’ve seen in Singapore that appears to be unplanned (and, therefore, probably illegal).

The Art of Yip Yew Chong

Most of the other street art harkens back to another time — and a great deal of that comes from the hand of Yip Yew Chong. You’ll find a mural of a letter writer, an occupation that would have been common in Chinatown a hundred years ago when many immigrants could not read or write … 

… an image of Singapore’s Mid-Autumn Festival in days of yore…

… and a glimpse into Yip Yew Chong’s own childhood home in Chinatown …

… complete with his mother’s kitchen …

… and a table fully stocked with Singaporean delights.

A more playful mural combines old and new — here’s a traditional fruit seller plying his trade with Detective Conan, the star of a Japanese manga series.

I’m a particular fan of Yip Yew Chong’s bold rendering of a Cantonese opera performance. I was lucky enough to stumble on him in the midst of painting it.

The opera mural is complete with backstage activity, and mischievous boys can be found under the stage…

… hanging out near the rojak (an Indonesian fruit and veggie salad) vendor …

… and lining up for ice cream.

The Ever-Evolving Murals of Singapore’s Chinatown

I love that the murals of Chinatown feel like a constant evolution; one may disappear while another rises on a building not far away. So return visits may yield new surprises, from the small and intimate …

… to the very large.

One More Stop in Telok Ayer

As you end your mural exploration, don’t miss a dip into Telok Ayer, just at Chinatown’s southeastern edge. Here, on the back of Thian Hock Keng Temple, you’ll find one of the neighborhood’s longest murals.

This mural portrays a father and his daughter looking out across the Singapore River at a long row of scenes of old Singapore.

Just next to this mural is a piece of art titled “Chinese Precessions [sic],” which celebrates 19th-century lantern parades.

If you find yourself wandering the streets of Chinatown and in need of a snack, I recommend stopping by the upper floor of the Chinatown Complex for a treat from Old Amoy Chendol — yum!

And if you want a bit of a smile, you might run across this sign near the Chinatown MRT to end your journey.

Chinatown is easy to reach by MRT — take the Downtown Line or North East Line to Chinatown, or the Thomson-East Coast Line to Maxwell.

More Singapore Art, Culture, & Heritage

• Looking for more street art? Head to Kampong Glam for another colorful collection of murals.
• For more things to do in Chinatown, don’t miss the chance to explore the country’s tea culture, with a visit to the King of Tea.
• For more on Chinese heritage in Singapore, the country offers a range of cultural museums, including the nearby Singapore Chinese Cultural Centre.