If you can tear yourself away from the beach, visiting Knossos and Heraklion is one of the highlights of any trip to Crete. A day here will give you the opportunity to explore ancient ruins, visit a magnificent archaeological museum, and wander a waterfront city with a delightfully eclectic mix of architecture.

The ancient palace of Knossos, once home to one of the great civilizations of the ancient Mediterranean, is especially impressive. This Minoan site was once home to Europe’s oldest known urban center.

Knossos and the Minoans

Between roughly 2000 BCE and 1200 BCE, the Minoans built great palace complexes with elaborate frescoes …

… drainage, water delivery, and sewer systems …

… multi-story buildings …

… theater areas…

… roads…

… and entry gates.

It wasn’t all easy going for the Minoans and the palace complexes they spread across Crete. Over the ages, their cities were destroyed multiple times by earthquakes, fires, volcanic activity, and/or invaders (archaeologists aren’t always 100% certain which).

The Minoans at Knossos vanished after a final great fire, leaving ruins that decayed until they were partially excavated by a Greek gentleman in 1878 CE. A British archaeologist by the name of Sir Arthur Evans then led fantastically controversial restoration efforts in the early 20th century, and most of what you see at the site today is thanks to (or in spite of, depending on your perspective) his efforts.

Visiting Knossos Today

Visiting Knossos has its frustrations: signage is minimal, tours are expensive, and ropes block off both views and access.

Entire major areas (the Queen’s Megaron, the Lustral Basin) were closed when we visited in June 2022. But while we wished for both better presentation and better interpretation, our visit still gave us some glimpse into what this incredible culture created thousands of years ago.

The Must-See Heraklion Archaeological Museum

I would argue that a trip to Knossos is not complete without an accompanying visit to the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, which is just a twelve-minute drive away from the palace. This is where you can start to get a sense of Minoan religion …

… games …

… jewelry …

… athletics (this fresco depicts a fun — and presumably entirely unsafe — activity called “bull jumping”) …

… burials (which were sometimes done in bathtubs) …

… armaments …

… fashion and hairstyles …

… kitchen gadgetry (they had fruit juicers!) …

… and more. There are pots and vessels of all sorts, many of which likely had religious purposes, which show the vast range of Cretan artistry.

And this is the place to go if you want to see the actual frescoes (or pieces of frescoes set into modern images— there’s very little intact work) from the palace of Knossos.

The museum also has plenty of post-Minoan work; you’ll find pre-Minoan pieces and items from the Mycenaeans all the way up through the Romans.

A visit to this museum can feel a bit overwhelming — it’s filled chock-a-block with artifacts — but it’s an amazing experience. And if Knossos has exhausted and confused you, the museum will provide a bit of air-conditioned respite and context.

Anyone traveling more widely through Greece should also make time for the archaeological museums of Athens and Thessaloniki, which offer even more on the region’s history.

Walking Through Heraklion

You’ll be hungry after all of that! Enjoy lunch at Peskesi, which focuses on local and sustainably sourced food (try the Cretan salad and lovely house white).

While you’re in town, don’t pass up the chance to stroll the streets of old Heraklion (a.k.a. Iraklio). It’s a bit touristy, but you can see the Venetian Loggia …

… the Church of Agios Titos (don’t miss the skull of St. Titus) …

… and wonderful old buildings with neoclassical façades.

Finally, you can take a walk along the waterfront and see the port to finish up your day.

From here, many travelers head westward toward the seaside town of Chania. But for something completely different, don’t miss the dramatic hike through the Samaria Gorge. And if you’d like a broader guide to visiting Crete, read my post about geography and travel realities.