People flock to Évora, Portugal, for the Chapel of Bones, the Roman ruins, and small-town life — but one of the most beautiful places to visit sits just ten minutes outside the city walls. Here you’ll find a spectacularly restored 15th-century convent, which is every bit as impressive as the sights of the town itself. If you’re in the area, be sure to visit the Convento do Espinheiro in Évora.

A Shepherd’s Vision

The Convento do Espinheiro was founded in the early 1400s, not long after a shepherd reported a vision of the Virgin Mary looming above a flaming thorn bush (espinheiro means “thorn bush,” or “bramble”, so you can think of this as the Convent of the Burning Bramble). Many centuries later, the convent is now owned by a hotel — but the chapel and nearby rooms remain open to the public.

The convent has a long and rich history. Once the stomping ground of Portuguese nobility, it boasts exquisite artistic and architectural details that hint at a very wealthy past. But it hasn’t all been rosy here; the French looted important paintings during the Peninsular War in the early 1800s, and the convent fell into disrepair in the twentieth century. Fortunately, the chapel has been painstakingly restored, and everything from the 1801 paintwork to the richly gilded altar just dazzles.

The Life of St. Jerome in Azulejos

One of the most striking features of the chapel is the excellent set of azulejos (blue tiles), most of which highlight moments from the life of St. Jerome.

Of particular note is the tile below, in which someone has scratched out the eyes of the devil (who is dressed up as a not very convincing temptress). It is probably just a fanciful tale, but legend has it that monks in the days of yore dug out the eyes so that the devil would not look upon their work.

Lions are everywhere, since the lion is one of St. Jerome’s key attributes (a quick bit of Christian history: St. Jerome kindly and miraculously removed a thorn from a lion’s paw, and the lion remained his faithful companion).

Marble, Memorials, and Side Chapels

The chapel has several great examples of intricate marblework …

… a few lovely side chapels …

… and interesting grave markings in the floor (be careful not to trip over them as you’re looking around).

Organs and Fountains

Unfortunately, the majestic Portuguese Baroque organ no longer functions, but it remains a work of beauty.

A small room to the side (likely the sacristy) is home to a fun fountain …

… and more elaborate tilework.

One of the best things is that you’ll usually have the chapel all to yourself.

Walking the Grounds of the Convento do Espinheiro in Évora

Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, you’re welcome to wander around the grounds. Outside, it’s worth venturing to the small external chapel to see the many different renderings of goats (presumably associated with a particular family’s crest).

Be on the lookout for this somewhat creepy depiction of St. Lucia (she can usually be found holding a plate full of eyes, but I called this the eye key) …

… and a statue of the Thorn Bush Virgin Mary herself.

From the Cloister to the Wine Cellar

You can see the original architectural features of the convent by wandering through the cloister …

… what is now the hotel’s wine cellar …

… and the hotel’s two dining rooms.

You don’t need much time to do all of this, but you can visit and then while away a very pleasant hour with a drink from the bar (try the wildly strong licor de poejo, or pennyroyal liqueur). No matter the time of day, it’s quite a place!

After the Convento do Espinheiro in Évora: More Places to Explore

Planning a longer visit to Évora? Don’t miss my post on the best things to do in town.

Heading to Óbidos or Sintra? Don’t miss my posts on spending an afternoon in Óbidos and comparing Sintra’s stunning palaces.