Sitting at the very southern tip of Croatia, Dubrovnik is charming and quaint — and somehow irresistible despite the crowds that flow out from their cruise ships and defy physics by filling the Old Town with more people than there seems to be space. Never mind Game of Thrones and Star Wars; the city stands all on its own. How can you not love the narrow streets, the striking red rooftops and ancient churches, all tucked into 13th-century walls backed by dazzling blue waters?

What a special place to travel! I would recommend giving Dubrovnik three full days so that you can slow down and enjoy it. But you can see all of the greatest hits in a busy two days, and some people can’t spend more than a day. With that in mind, here’s the best of the best on day 1, and the rest on day 2.

Day 1: The Best of the Old Town

Start Early on the City Walls

Wake up early and start your day by walking the historic city walls.

You’ll want to get up to the walls first thing to beat both the crowds and the heat. Bring water! You’re going to be doing a lot of walking; get ready for 1,940 meters (1.2 miles) of tromping that includes 1,080 stairs, sixteen towers, and three fortresses. With taking in the sights and stopping for pictures, all of this will likely take around an hour and a half. But it’s entirely worth it — there’s no better way to look inside the Old Town.

Refill at the Onofrio Fountain

Once you finish the wall circuit, refill your bottle and take a refreshing drink from one of the sixteen different masked faces of the Large Onofrio Fountain, which has been supplying the townspeople with water since 1438 (don’t forget to look up to see the dog that’s guarding the top).

Visit the Oldest Pharmacy in Europe

Your next stop is the Franciscan Monastery, one of two monasteries in the Old Town (the Dominicans are over on the other side).

Both museums have beautiful cloisters, but the Franciscan Monastery has the edge in being home to the oldest still-functioning pharmacy in Europe. It’s been around since 1317! The now updated, fairly small establishment is thronged with locals coming to pick up their prescriptions. If you want to see a slice of pharmacy history, visit the monastery’s museum to see what the shelves looked like in days of yore.

Stroll the Stradun and Enjoy Lunch al Fresco

After this visit, it’s time to walk along the Stradun, the wide, limestone-paved street that rounds the length of the Old Town. You can’t miss it — it’s the one thronged with people, shops, and the best gelato in town (no one will judge you if you stop at aROMA for a scoop). Head towards the clocktower …

… and then hang a right to make your way to a well-deserved lunch at Restaurant and Bar Rudjer, just across from the 17th-century St. Ignatius Church. Their fish soup is a local treat, and reading the menu alone is a delight.

Explore the Rector’s Palace

Once you feel well-sated, take an easy three-minute walk to the Rector’s Palace.

This building was the seat of government for the fabulously-named Republic of Ragusa between the 15th century and the early 19th century. It’s served as a museum since 1872, and it’s a great place to see both the world in which the Ragusan leadership operated (side note: each rector was elected to serve only a single month) …

… and dozens of important city artifacts (including the original 1478 bronze jacks that struck the hours in the town clocktower, a 1503 statue of the city’s patron, Saint Blaise, a collection of iron chests with fabulous locking mechanisms, old city maps, and carriages for local royalty).

Swim in the Adriatic

Unless it’s overcast, this is the time for a swim! The good news is that you don’t have to walk very far — there are several openings on the sea side of the city walls that will lead you out to stairs (plenty of them) that lead right down to the water. Not sure where to go? Look for “Public Swimming Area” on Google Maps, and you’ll find one of the spots.

Get Lost in the Narrow Streets

If you still have the energy, take some time to wander the narrow back streets of the Old Town. The nice thing about Dubrovnik is that it’s compact and very walkable. Every street has its own charm …

… but you’ll need to be prepared for a lot of steps!

As you walk, keep in mind that all of Dubrovnik was under siege for seven months during the Balkan War of the early 1990s, following the breakup of the former Yugoslavia. The city came under heavy artillery fire, and over half of its buildings were damaged. So what you see here is the result of an impressive rebuilding campaign.

As the evening winds down, head towards Ploče Gate, and keep your eye out for the steps of the Dominican Monastery — which I took to calling the “chastity steps.” Apparently, after the staircase was built, the monks had the lower halves of the columns enclosed to hide the dainty ankles of the womenfolk from public view.

Have Dinner With a View

End your fun-filled day just outside the town walls with dinner at Konoba Kenova (reservations recommended). While their bread is disappointing, they do this thing with beef on top of a local gnocchi that is simply magical.

For more magic, take in the Old Town at night — both the walls …

… and the streets take on a whole new look.

Day 2: From the Heights to the Harbors

Ride to the Top of Mount Srđ

Welcome to your second day! Have an early breakfast and try to be the first in line for the Dubrovnik Cable Car — get there right when they open! Any later than 9:00, and the lines become brutal. The cable car, the first in the Adriatic when it opened in 1969, is the best way to get picture-perfect postcards of the town below.

Don’t like heights? Don’t like cable cars jam-packed full of people? You also have the options of walking or taking a car up to the top of Mount Srđ, from which there are views galore. It’s worth making a reservation at the Panorama Restaurant if you want to sit and have a cup of coffee or a meal overlooking the sea (though note that they don’t have much of anything in the way of breakfast foods).

Peruse the Archaeological Museum

Once you’re back down, head into the Old Town via the Ploče Gate. A visit to the tiny Archaeological Museum is totally optional, but it won’t take long, and they do have a fabulous display that shows you how the city has changed and built up over time.

Admire the Dominican Monastery

Next, pay a visit to the Dominican Monastery. The Dominicans started up in this spot in 1225, when Dubrovnik was still under the sovereignty of Venice. They built their church (currently under renovations) in the 14th century, and added a lovely cloister about a century later.

The Dominican Monastery also has a museum; it’s unlikely to wow you, but it’s worth a quick peek.

Wander Around the Old Port

As you continue further into town, if you like boats (or want to plan a trip on one), make your way through the gate to the Old Port. It’s a lovely place for a stroll.

See the Sponza Palace and St. Blaise’s Church

Back inside the gates, make a stop in at the Sponza Palace, once the city’s customs house. In addition to some beautiful architecture, you can see a small but moving memorial display about the men and women (but mostly men) who defended the city during the 1991-1992 Homeland War siege.

Walk just a few seconds from here to take a look at Baroque St. Blaise’s Church …

… and, just across the way, the Small Onofrio Fountain. This Gothic-Renaissance masterpiece was built at the same time as its larger cousin in the mid-1400s, when the town installed an aqueduct and a public water system.

Have Lunch and Walk Through Gradac Park

From here, feel free to wend your way through the streets however you like; you can’t possibly go wrong. Head out of Pile Gate and hope that you can snag a table for lunch at Dubravka 1836 (better yet, make reservations beforehand). Great bread, great service, solid food.

It’s a bit off the tourist beaten path, but a stroll under the broad trees of Gradac Park will likely hit the spot after lunch.

You’ll have an incredible view from here down to the Church of St. Mary and Danče Beach.

Swim — or Visit Fort Lovrijenac

If you’re getting hot, head to the beach for a swim (I use the term “beach” loosely here; it’s more of a pile of large rocks and concrete slabs where you can lie down)! Another enticing swimming spot is the pier at Dubrovnik’s West Harbor — you can hop right in.

Not in the mood to get wet — or don’t have your swimsuit along? Another option for the afternoon is a visit to Fort Lovrijenac, built to resist the Venetians when Ragusa became independent.

Try a Dalmatian Peka Dinner

For dinner, head back up the hillside to Konoba Dubrava for an elaborate meal of Dalmatian Peka, or meat cooked under an iron bell. This particular preparation takes a long time, so you should plan to place an order for it at the same time as you’re making your reservation.

Essential Travel Tips for Dubrovnik

• Dubrovnik is expensive. Food, accommodations, entry fees — everything seems to cost a pretty penny.
• Consider in advance whether you want to invest in a Dubrovnik Pass. This allows for free or reduced entry to many (but not all) of the city’s attractions, but it’s only worthwhile if you have enough of them on your agenda.
• Museum hours are tricky — check opening times and days before you plan out your itinerary.
• Check cruise ship schedules before you go. The Old Town can feel overwhelmingly crowded when large ships are in port.
• Pack a swimsuit! There are lots of fun places to hop in for a dip, and summers can be fantastically hot.

More Things to Do In and Around Dubrovnik

Looking for more — or different — things to do? Here are some other ideas:

• Book a day trip to the Blue Lagoon or some of the nearby islands.
• Take a day trip to neighboring Montenegro, or Bosnia & Herzegovina.
• Rent a car and visit the medieval fortress of Sokol Grad and the Ljuta countryside.
• Take a Game of Thrones tour, either guided or self-guided.
• Go on a day trip to Lokrum Island. You can get ferry tickets at the Old Port (unless they close the entire island due to bad weather, which happened to me).
• Enjoy sea kayaking for a view of Dubrovnik from the water.
• Lie out on Banje Beach. Right next to the Old Town, Banje is a rocky beach where you can rent an umbrella and a beach chair (be prepared to spend all the money on this). It’s crowded, but if you like a beach scene, this is the place for it.