Back in 2018, I set out on what I thought would be a casual five-kilometer circuit trek behind the Rose Bay Hotel in Bowen, Australia. What I got instead was a hilly adventure filled with tiny hidden bays, sweeping sea views, and a whole lot of giant boulders. Bowen has so many rocks! And you’ll find much more along the way to make this a truly memorable coastal walk.

If you go, know that you’ll start with a set of stairs — get ready for up, up, up:

Views From the Top

This passel of stairs leads you to your first major rock of the hike: Mother Beddock, a giant balancing boulder supposedly named after a woman who had a large pimple on her nose. From this high perch, you’ll look out over an expansive panorama of the landscape below.

The scene from the top is especially lovely on a sunny morning — though it’s worth noting that this hike is incredibly exposed, so if you plan to do all hilly 5 kilometers, go early and bring water:

After you’ve passed the great mother rock, you’ll hike down to a very pretty little bay …

… with more rocks!

I really loved this big round-ish boulder…

… and this one, which looks like a modern art sculpture:

Sandy Shores

If you keep walking, you get to remote, quiet Murray Bay …

… and then to this beautiful but very rocky bay (unnamed on my maps) …

… and finally to postcard-perfect Horseshoe Bay:

As you can see, Horseshoe Bay has a wide ring of soft sand — but if you want more rocks, you’ll find plenty both to the north …

… and to the south.

Looking for more details about this hike? Check out the clumsily named “Horseshoe Bay and Mother Beddock Lookout via Rose Bay Beach” AllTrails entry— or the more elegantly titled Cape Edgecumbe Walk on the Bowen Tourism website. Just know that both of these may have you starting at Horseshoe Bay and heading in the direction of Rose Bay, while I did it the other way around. I stand by my choice, because it allows you to stop for a treat at Horseshoe Bay in the middle!

As a side note, I’d really been hoping to snorkel in Horseshoe Bay. Unfortunately, when I arrived at the beach on a separate trip with my mask and fins in hand, word on the street was that a girl had been hospitalized the day before with serious jellyfish stings.

There was also a Nor’easter blowing in, which (1) makes it wavy and (2) increases the likelihood of more jellyfish coming in towards shore (both of which count, in my book, as lousy snorkeling conditions). So I just dipped my toes in and watched the water from the safety of shore.

Nude Sunbathing in Bowen

If you’re up for a very different kind of coastal experience, head over to nearby clothing optional Coral Bay, drop your swimsuit, and work on your tan!