Chiang Mai: 2 Days in Thailand’s Enchanting Rose of the North

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Asia,Thailand

Temples. Coffee shops. Markets. Spas. Mountains. There are so many reasons that hundreds of Westerners flock to Chiang Mai, whether it’s to see the views, eat great food, shop for local handicrafts, or seek out self-improvement. You could easily lose yourself for weeks on end in Thailand’s second-largest city, but if you’re just passing through, here’s how you might spend two days.

Day 1: Temples, Coffee, Culture, and Night Markets

Wats & Caffeine

Start by exploring one of Chiang Mai’s most important temples, Wat Chedi Luang Varaviharn (Google knows this as Watchediluang Varaviharn).

The prayer hall of Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai, its gold facade glittering in the morning sun

Sitting at the heart of Chiang Mai’s walled Old City, the Wat Chedi Luang complex houses the remains of a 14th-century stupa that was once the tallest structure in the Lanna Kingdom (sadly, it was toppled by an earthquake in 1545). Partially reconstructed in the 1990s, it remains significant for local worshippers and tourists alike. You’ll want to get up early if you want to see the monks gathering to collect alms in the morning — it’s an amazing sight:

Young monks in orange and saffron robes waiting to receive alms in the early morning at Wat Chedi Luang Stupa, Chiang Mai

If you’re here a bit later in the day, you can sit and chat with monks at the temple’s northern end. No matter when you visit, make sure to take a spin around the whole temple complex — it’s huge, and it’s home to everything from famous statuary to extensive floral displays.

Now it’s time for a coffee break at the spectacular Blue Coffee at Old Town. Try the Little Boy — it’s delicious.

A glass of coffee containing Little Boy Coffee at Blue Coffee in Chiang Mai, the perfect blend of coffee, milk, and orange

While you’re in the area, head back toward Wat Chedi Luang to pay a visit to Wat Phan Tao.

The tranquil, wooden Wat Phan Tao Temple in Chiang Mai, with yellow flags and a red-painted fence lining its side

This unusual wooden temple features a teak assembly hall that once served as public meeting space for the ruler of Chiang Mai; the Phra Chao Pan Tao, the Buddha that dominates the space, dates back to the fifteenth century.

A monk in a saffron robe standing in front of a golden Buddha statue in the prayer hall of Wat Phan Tao Temple, Chiang Mai

While you’re at Wat Phan Tao, keep an eye out for the alms bowls, golden peacock decoration, and oh-so-Instagrammable bells and umbrellas.

Why So Many Wats in Chiang Mai?

You’ll see dozens of temples as you walk through the city — Chiang Mai has at least 300 of them. Why? Well, Mangrai, the first ruler of the Lanna (a.k.a. Lan Na) Kingdom, founded Chiang Mai as his capital in 1296. A practicing Buddhist, he had a number of temples built on his new royal turf. Subsequent kings continued to support temple development, and as the city drew both more money and more monks, temple participation blossomed. You can now find temples and stupas all over town, both shiny …

Statue in front of Wat Muen Tum (Wat Muen Toom) Temple, Chiang Mai, illuminated at night, casting a serene glow against the dark sky.

… and crumbly.

Unadorned brick stupa along Suriyawong Alley, off Rat Chiang Saen Road in Chiang Mai, showcasing simple, historic architecture

Keep your eyes out — you may find a temple where you least expect it.

Chiang Mai Crafts & Culture

For lunch, walk a few blocks to Chada Vegetarian. Try the Massaman curry — it’s cheap and amazing. Then wander through the quiet back streets of the Old City as you make your way to the aptly-named Kalm Village (it really is peaceful), where you can immerse yourself in the crafts and culture of Northern Thailand and nearby regions. The art featured here is both contemporary …

Contemporary multicolored textile art at Kalm Village, Chiang Mai

… and traditional.

Detail of horsehair embroidery of the Shui ethnic people (China), featuring swirls and birds of blue, green, and brown, on display at Kalm Village in Chiang Mai

Kalm Village boasts a range of exhibition spaces, so you’re sure to see a range of interesting things. Here’s an embroidered textile from southern China that’s made by dyeing cotton, soaking it in either pig’s blood or pounded persimmon peels and chestnut shells, and coating the whole thing in egg white, and pounding it with a mallet:

Embroidered eggwhite textile of the Shui ethnic people of southern China, featuring a sliver, pink, and green circle on a black background, on display at Kalm Village in Chiang Mai

Kalm Village is part museum, part library, and part events space. Plan to spend a couple of hours here browsing, having a cup of tea at the cafe, and enjoying the multiple shops.

Quirky shop at Kalm Village, Chiang Mai, offering a variety of shirts, bags, baskets, and other unique items

Chiang Mai’s Night Markets

You’ll want to have dinner at or somewhere near one of Chiang Mai’s many night markets. The markets take place in different locations on different nights, so which one you pick will depend on your timing. Fingers crossed you’ll be in town on a Sunday, when you can visit the night market on Ratchadamnoen Road. I’ve been to night markets all over Southeast Asia, and this one is particularly great.

Day 2: Jungle Hikes, Hidden Temples, & Thai Spa Bliss

Hiking the Monk’s Trail

Wake up early (again!) to beat the crowds and the heat as you head to the foothills of the mountains for a hike up the Monk’s Trail.

Monk's Trail hiking path in Chiang Mai, featuring a dry trail marked by a vibrant pink and gold trail banner known as a Tung flag

In less than forty minutes, this well-maintained and heavily traveled trail will have you at Wat Pha Lat, a not-so-hidden jungle temple.

Romantic Wat Pha Lat, nestled in the heart of the Chiang Mai jungle, offering a peaceful and serene atmosphere

Legend tells that a 14th-century king founded this monastery because his white elephant took a rest there. Today, Wat Pha Lat is now a monastery and meditation retreat site.

 Woven, colorful Tung flag in front of a stupa at Wat Pha Lat, Chiang Mai, bringing good luck, prosperity, and protection

As with many Thai temples, it’s replete with great animal statuary.

If you have the time and energy, you can continue uphill from here to the larger and much more golden Doi Suthep temple.

Thai Massage Time

Alternatively, you can head back down, have a late breakfast, and then head to the fabulous Fah Lanna Spa.

Steam rising from the waters under the walkways, with palms rising gracefully overhead at Fah Lanna Spa, Chiang Mai

The treatments here are amazing — I could rave about them for days. Be sure to make reservations in advance! And take your time: savor everything from the welcome drink at the start to the tea and khao taen (sweet rice crackers) at the end.

Tea, a cold towel, and Khao Taen served after a spa treatment at Fah Lanna Spa, Chiang Mai, offering a relaxing finish to the experience

For lunch, pop right next door to Fahtara Coffee. Their khao soi, green curry, and coffee drinks are all excellent (ok, no coffee drink really needs to come with smoke under a dome, but what fun!).

A multi-layered coffee drink served beside a pine cone, enclosed under a smoky glass cloche, at Fahtara Coffee in Chiang Mai

Mango With Sticky Rice: The Best Thai Treat

If you still have room, it’s time for another treat at Mana’s Best Mango Sticky Rice.

A simple yet delicious plate of ripe mango with sticky rice, served at Mana's Best Mango Sticky Rice in Chiang Mai

I have a friend who says, “if you’re not having a massage and mango with sticky rice every day while you’re in Thailand, you’re doing something wrong.” She’s not crazy.

To round out your afternoon, swing by another temple or two. You have a lot to choose from, but I would recommend Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan, another temple complex that dates back to the 1300s.

Guardian naga statues protecting a temple at Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai, with two gleaming golden stupas in the background

Wat Phra Singh is home to a number of important Buddha statues, a handful of wax monks, and some very shiny golden elephants!

But my very favorite part of Wat Phra Singh was the painted walls (date unknown) in the same building that houses the Phra Buddha Sihing statue. Swimming elephants and sawfish, winged side-eye chicken-man, headless romance … what’s not to love?

You may be so exhausted at this point that you just want to have dinner near your hotel, but if you want to head out, it’s fun to sit in the garden at the Reform Kafe. Their mango-passionfruit smoothie is wonderfully refreshing.

Other Chiang Mai Adventures to Try

1) Many people want to see elephants while they’re in Chiang Mai. If you opt for this adventure, please choose an ethical provider — do not support outfits that offer elephant rides and bathing, both of which are questionable from an animal treatment perspective. It’s really hard to know which elephant reserves are actually treating elephants well, but if you’d like to try to figure out a good provider, you might consult this list (it’s not complete, but it’s a start).

A solitary Asian elephant walking in the elephant enclosure at the Singapore Zoo

2) Northern Thailand has a cuisine all its own, and you might want to enroll in a cooking class. Bonus points for the class if they take you to a local food market.

3) If you’re in town on a Saturday and are ready to cab a bit out of town for an adventure, I highly recommend visiting the Bamboo Family Market.

Bamboo shopping stalls and seating under the trees at Bamboo Family Market outside of Chiang Mai, Thailand

This is a great place to while away a few hours listening to music …

… buying truly local jewelry, textiles, and baskets …

A display of various hand-woven baskets at the Bamboo Family Market, just outside Chiang Mai, Thailand, highlighting traditional craftsmanship.

… eating terrific Northern Thai and Myanmarese food …

Daw Yin Kye vegan noodle dish served on a lotus leaf, showcasing traditional Burmese food with a unique presentation

… and watching local craftspeople at work.

Essential Travel Tips for Chiang Mai

  • For your first visit, stay in the Old City (a.k.a. Old Town). This area provides the easiest access to sightseeing options and is easily walkable.
  • Check the weather before you book! Chiang Mai has a rainy season (June-October), a smoky season (mid-January-May), and a lovely season (November-mid-January).
  • Women, bring a shoulder wrap and plan to cover your knees for temples.
  • Skip the Silver Temple! It’s much-hyped, but it feels too Disneyfied, and women can’t enter (Why? Because — good luck understanding this logic — women can’t be monks). The outside of the temple is beautiful, but it’s not worth the trip.
The Silver Temple (Wat Srisuphan) in Chiang Mai, known for its intricate silver-plated architecture and detailed craftsmanshi

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