It’s easy to miss the art of Imperial Huế as you gaze at the palaces, lakes, tombs, and gates of Vietnam’s Nguyen Dynasty. But while monumental structures may be the main attraction, the artistic details make Huế’s tomb and palace complexes come alive. Every time I looked around, I found myself wowed by the creativity and craftsmanship.

For more on what I loved (and didn’t love) about Huế, check out my Huế visit reflections.

The Art of Imperial Huế

Broken-Plate Mosaics

To me, the most remarkable artworks of Imperial Huế were the mosaics that covered gates, walls, and columns nearly everywhere I went.

To make these pieces, craftsmen broke colorful bowls, plates, tiles, and glass bottles into small shards. You can still see these broken shards clearly in many of the works.

The mosaics of Imperial Huế incorporate a wide variety of themes …

… but my very favorites were those depicting creatures, from elephants to phoenixes to dragons.

You’ll find a lot of traditional themes in these mosaics. But examine them closely, and you may find decidedly modern objects. If you look up at Khai Dinh’s tomb — home to the most jam-packed imperial mosaic collection — you’ll find a clock …

… and even a banker’s lamp.

Painted Walls, Ceilings, and Screens

The artisans of Imperial Huế ensured that your eyes always had somewhere to travel. They worked floor-to-ceiling, seemingly covering every surface in an explosion of art. The painted dragon ceilings are especially dramatic.

Painted dragons and clouds swirl and twist everywhere.

Even the screens hanging over temple altars featured dragon motifs.

At the start of the twentieth century, though, decorative styles began to change. At An Dinh Palace, the bold dragons of earlier tombs and palaces gave way to flowers, pastel colors, and repeating geometric patterns.

Stone Carvings

The stone statues of Imperial Huế stand tall and proud.

It’s tempting to take a quick picture and walk on by. But you’ll discover a whole lot more if you pause: the carvings on the saddlecloth, the medallions on the head straps, and the shape of the ears (which suggest, incidentally, that this is an Asian elephant rather than an African one).

It can be difficult to see these details today because of weathering. You’ll need to get right up close to appreciate the hard work of the stone carvers of Imperial Huế.

Plus, a close-up view might put a smile on your face!

Gilded Wood

You could easily overlook the wood carvings of Imperial Huế — you might not even know they were there.

Wood carvings hide in plain sight, often tucked into corners or running along doorway edges.

You might also miss these wood carvings because they don’t look like wood at all. But those gold decorations you’re seeing are actually lacquered wood covered in gold leaf.

Colorful Ceramics

Not all ceramics were smashed into tiny pieces to make mosaics. Some were left whole for everything from wall decorations …

… to roof adornments …

… to gate accents.

Bronze Urns

You won’t see many antiquities that can be picked up and moved in Imperial Huế. But as you wander through the courtyards of the Imperial City, you will find nine bronze dynastic urns.

Commissioned by Emperor Minh Mang in the 1830s, these urns represented the Nguyen Dynasty’s supreme authority. You might be tempted to breeze by them — they stand in the blazing hot sun — but pausing here will reward you with over 150 small, elegant reliefs.

These images feature landscapes, dragons, trees, celestial bodies, and even chickens and crocodiles. Don’t miss them — they offer a unique look into the life and values of early nineteenth-century Vietnam.

Embroidery for an Empress Mother

Walking around the monuments of Imperial Huế, I couldn’t help but feel awed by the grandeur. These are spaces dominated by imposing architecture and over-the-top decoration. So I was delighted when I came upon a single garment on display at the Imperial City: a replica of a ceremonial tunic made for a Nguyen Empress Mother.

Garments like these reward close study, especially once you start examining the embroidery. Only if you kneel down and search will you find the sacred turtle of Vietnam.

When I set out to visit Huế, I had my eyes on the architecture and the landscapes. So it was a joy to find so much art — and to spend time looking at the details. It took more time (not always welcome in the sweltering sunshine), but I would not have done it any other way.

Planning a longer Vietnam adventure? Don’t miss the pleasures of Ha Long Bay, the temples of My Son, and the streets of Hoi An.